Nanamea Celebrations

Nanamea Celebrations

The 16^th of July is the day to celebrate the building of the church on Nanamea – constructed from 1931 to 1937, when there was only about 200 islanders, and before there was any mechanisation on the island, or access through the reef into the lagoon.  This is calculated to be the church’s 84^th birthday.  The celebrations started with bells ringing at 3:30am, announcing a service in the church at 4:30am – having sat through a service in Tuvaluan on Sunday, we did not go to this service.  But during the day we got a very nice invitation for the whole team to attend the evening celebrations in the village hall, starting at 18:50.

We were given a place of honour on the “inner circle”, to the left of the priest, and opposite the kaupule members:

We were instructed by the kaupule secretary:

that we were expected to give a speech, after the head kaupule had spoken – it seems there was general agreement that, as the oldest member of the team, I should give the speech.  The service started with a hymn, then prayers, then the speeches.  There is some form of protocol round these speeches, which I haven’t fully grasped, but I think anyone can speak – there is an opening speaker, and a closing speaker, and in between anyone can speak.  Remember that everyone is sitting on the floor, so once someone starts struggling to their feet, they have sort of grabbed the next speaking position – but there is no rush in between speakers – part of the protocol appears to give everyone time to think about what they want to say.

After the speeches the food was uncovered, and once again we were given the honour of being among the first to select our food.  The food table was so long I took a picture from one end:

and then the other end:

just in case you were unable to see the enormouty of it.  There was everything you could think of there, and lots of things you couldn’t think of – lots of fish, pork, chicken, native birds, rice, coconuts, and various vegetable things,  The fish and native birds are mostly cooked whole.  Here is the team eating:

Floor service came round with coconuts on little standy things for each of us:

And this service continued all night.  As each person finished, the plate was taken away and a wash bowl and towel provided to wash hands – eating with fingers is the normal procedure.  Once everyone in the inner circle had got our food, the outer circle took what they wanted – but even after this it was difficult to see that much food was gone.

We could see activities outside both ends of the hall – people in fancy dress etc – and eventually a big rectangular drum board was brought out to each end. Then the two teams – red and green, north and south (?) started assembling.  Big guys round the drum board, with others sitting round them, and in the back, two lines of dancers, one male, one female – but all dressed in grass skirts and colourful ribbons. Everyone wears a head band of intricately woven greenery and flowers (these alone must have taken hours to make), and a necklace of greenery.  Again, not sure of the protocol here, but these can be given away to others – Heather was bestowed by the head TEC guy early on, but he was a key drummer in the green team, so maybe the garlands were an incumberance for him.  But eventually all the team were decked out in their finery:

Here is one of the drums being beaten - in the top left corner is the bare-headed guy who gave Heather his head-dress before starting to beat the drum:

The red team started – the words are repititous, but start slow, and build up in volume and speed, and with key changes, builds to a crescendo – then starts again:

Sometimes the two lines of dancers swap over, with the boys coming to the front:

and sometimes the girls at the front:

For each team it seems to be a bit of an endurance test, until they all collapse in a heap – then the other team takes over:

And ere is the green team a bit later with Martin (in blue) joining in:

But I am also reminded of the famous lines:

    The piper loud and louder blew

    The dancers quick and quicker flew

    The reeled they set they crossed and cleekit

    Till ilka carlin swat and reekit

Each team had a cheer leader – here is the red team leader:

And here is the green team leader:

And no, I have not got the colours confused!

This went on for over two hours – it was an amazing performance – but it did get a bit repetitive.  The performers obviously had a great time, especially the male dancers – and it was good to see that our deaf and dumb companion, Eitsi, was a well-accepted member of the green team.

With some final speeches the performance ended about 10:30.  We were invited to stay for the dancing to follow, but bed was beckoning – maybe Roger stayed for the dancing.

I leave you with more pictures of the male dancers: